Lost and Found in the Mountains: Hiking to Mitsumine Shrine

Hiking from Tokyo isn’t always a simple affair. Just getting to the trailhead can mean a 2-hour train ride, plus the extra determination required to wake up early and get a head start. But one day, I proved to myself that even if you get a late start, you can still have an amazing adventure.

After a particularly stressful week at work, I spontaneously decided to escape to nature. It was already past midnight when I started searching for a destination. Two hours later, I found it: Mitsumine Shrine, tucked away in the mountains of Chichibu, Saitama. Excitement lit up my exhausted heart as I packed for the next day. By the time I climbed into bed, it was almost 3:00 AM. Setting my alarm for 5:50, I drifted off...

...only to wake up with a jolt of panic - I had overslept. I had set the time on my alarm but fell asleep before saving it. Still, better late than never. At 8:00, I was at the train station conbini, buying water, onigiri, and a notebook to document my day.

Despite the late start, I felt that giddy mix of excitement and anxiety unique to solo adventures.

Arriving at Seibu-Chichibu station around 10:00, I quickly hopped onto a bus, relieved to find a seat despite the crowd (which is exactly why I wanted an early start, but here we were). The bus twisted its way up the mountain roads, zigzagging so much that one passenger turned visibly green. To his delight, traffic soon slowed us to a crawl as we encountered something you would not expect - a traffic jam in the mountains! When I asked the driver how long it might take, he gave me a knowing glance: “You’ll probably get there faster if you walk.” You don't have to tell me twice!

I hopped off, finding a barely-there path through the forest. It didn't seem frequently traveled, but surely it led somewhere, right? There was one other person who had also decided to walk, though I wasn't sure if their presence made me feel at ease or slightly nervous. Just as doubt crept in, a reassuring sign appeared, confirming I was on the right path toward the shrine. Relief washed over me, amplified as other hikers joined from different trails.

Soon, the road became more like a proper trail, passing a small shrine guarded by two fox-like statues. It was there I overheard a mother explaining to her young son that while many shrines in Japan honor fox gods (oinari-san), Mitsumine Shrine is special—it venerates the Japanese wolves that once roamed these mountains before extinction. It was as if life had handed me the perfect narration.

At Mitsumine Shrine, a well-known "power spot," crowds wandered among towering trees adorned with sacred shimenawa ropes. I arrived from a side path, but if I'd taken the bus all the way, the main entrance would have greeted me with a long gravel path lined with traditional Japanese lanterns, leading to a majestic gate marking the shrine’s entrance.

Besides the main worship hall, there are several smaller shrines, statues, and monuments dedicated to wolves, intricate wood carvings, sacred cedar trees wrapped in rope, and even a small museum exhibiting historical artifacts. Visitors can also purchase omamori (protective charms) and goshuin (stamp seals) at the shrine office.

After offering prayers at the main shrine and soaking in the serene atmosphere, I headed to the viewpoint. Green mountains stretched endlessly beneath a sky speckled with drifting clouds. Sometimes, just seeing the endless greenery makes my heart feel at ease.

While snapping photos, two elderly Japanese gentlemen approached. Initially wary, I answered their curious question about where I was from, reluctantly revealing my Slovak roots. This triggered an animated discussion about Czechoslovakia. When I chimed in using Japanese, their surprise quickly turned into lively conversation. Then, with a conspiratorial whisper, one leaned in: “Do you know where the real kami-sama (local god) is? At Okunoin, over there!” He pointed toward a distant mountain top, immediately piquing my curiosity.

That brief conversation was all the information I had, but I decided to find the kami-sama. How could I resist?

Three grilled mushrooms from a nearby stall revitalized me enough for the adventure ahead. The trailhead, clearly marked yet deserted, immediately transported me into another world. Towering trees shielded the sky, and the silence was mesmerizing. Passing beneath the first of several torii gates on the trail, it felt as though I'd stepped into a different realm.

Halfway up without meeting a single soul, solitude shifted from magical to mildly concerning. Just as worry crept in, a cheerful group of elderly hikers descending greeted me warmly, reassuring me I was indeed on the right track. The final ascent was exciting, involving steep ladders, chains, and rocky climbs—but if cheerful obaachans could do it, so could I.

Finally, atop the mountain stood a humble wolf shrine. Quiet descended as a cloud appeared above, shielding the place from harsh sunlight. Though the views weren't unparalleled, quite the contrary as a huge cloud descended on the top of the mountain, something about the spot felt profoundly sacred. Enjoying my slightly squished yet delicious onigiri, I basked in the profound calm. Soon, a few more hikers joined, exchanging greetings and enjoying their snacks.

After a while, ready to head back, thick clouds engulfed the mountain as voices faded behind me, wrapping the forest in enchanting mist. The torii gates emerged ghost-like through the fog, amplifying the magical atmosphere. Pausing to snap photos, I felt profound gratitude. How lucky I was to witness such beauty, and how grateful to live in Japan. Life can feel overwhelming, but moments like these make everything fall into place.

Returning to Mitsumine Shrine, reality awaited in the form of a massive bus queue. Yet even the lengthy wait couldn't dampen my spirits. Eventually boarding the bus, exhausted yet deeply satisfied, I reached Chichibu station, bought some souvenirs, and boarded a lovely yellow train back home.

Reflecting now, I realize how my relationship with hiking has evolved. Growing up in a mountain village, hikes were mandatory family outings that often felt tedious. But adulthood revealed the privilege of losing oneself among trees, hearing only nature, and being alone with my thoughts. Hiking became my escape, my therapy, my source of inspiration.

That spontaneous day trip to Mitsumine Shrine remains one of my most treasured memories—a reminder that sometimes, even a late start leads exactly where you're meant to be.

📷View a Photo Gallery from this trip: Mitsumine Shrine Adventure