Into the Forest with Demons: A Journey to Oga’s Namahage Festival (Akita prefecture)

Every February, something mysterious happens on the Oga Peninsula in Akita, the third northernmost prefecture in Japan. A deep, fiery tradition comes to life, and trust me, it’s worth the cold fingers and toes. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.

Starting our adventure to the land of Namahage (Aomori →Akita)

Our adventure started in Aomori, where we spent the night in a ryokan so remote it felt like a digital detox bootcamp. No Wi-Fi, no cell service, no electricity—a perfect setting to lose your mind or find your soul. (Full story here - The Ryokan with no wifi, cell phone service nor electricity)

The next morning, we journeyed back to Hirosaki City, a place famous for its cherry blossoms in spring and a charmingly retro vibe year-round. As we still had about an hour until our train, we stopped by the Tea Lounge Eau Claire, a slightly fancy spot that made us feel a bit underdressed, but the staff welcomed us warmly, and we indulged in a slice of Aomori’s legendary apple pie.

From there, we boarded a quaint local train that wound its way through snowy landscapes straight out of a Ghibli film. In Tokyo the snow is quite rare, so we stared out the windows and took in the lovely scenery outside.

Our final train gave away a hint of where we were heading as the bright red car was branded with images of ogres in its side. Fellow tourist passengers were a confirmation that we are heading in the right direction. Some of them were a bit loud and decided sitting on the train floor was the best idea. Not such a good idea in Japan, cue the side-eyes from local commuters.

Arriving at the Oga station, we were greeted—or rather, ambushed—by two Namahage demons. Their fierce growls sent kids scurrying behind their parents’ legs, which was honestly a bit funny. The kids found more courage after some time and were able to take pictures with the huge duo.

A brave boy with two ogres - Welcome to OGA

A short bus ride later, we checked into the Oga Kanko Hotel. The staff at the hotel were lovely and the room spacious, but let’s just say the hotel’s age showed a bit more than its photos suggested and the view left a little to be desired. No matter—we were here for the experience, not the décor. After a quick rest, we hopped onto a shuttle bus bound for the main event: the Oga Namahage Matsuri.

When Demons Descend: A Fiery Night with the Namahage

The 20-minute ride through the snowy countryside treated us to a nice sunset on the way. We arrived at Shinzan Shrine parking lot just as the last light faded and followed a glowing trail of lanterns up to the entrance. With our tickets in hand, we received small wooden knives as souvenirs and a program for the night’s festivities. The shrine’s dramatic setting, halfway up a mountain, added to the mystical atmosphere.

Entrance to the shrine

We walked through a wooden entrance gave and up a long stone stairway and found ourselves just in front of the main shrine, We noticed photographers clustered near another stone stairway disappearing into the forest, so we claimed a spot there—a decision we’d later thank ourselves for.

With an hour to kill before the show began, we took turns wandering over to the food stalls for some local treats. A warm cup of amazake - a sweet fermented rice drink, was a welcome remedy for the biting cold. We also sampled soba noodles and mochi in a miso sauce, a regional specialty whose name escapes me but whose taste I’ll never forget.

Lighting up the torches

As darkness fell, the fires were lit, and the spectacle began. The mayor gave opening remarks, followed by a Shinto priest who initiated a ritual at the bottom of the forested stairway. Local boys dressed in straw capes and black masks emerged from the trees where they were welcomed by the priest, the mayor and the festival representatives.

Beginning of the festival ceremony

In a ceremonial way the two frontmost boys were handed the the iconic Namahage masks - one blue and one red, which they put on as they received them. Then suddenly, all the boys behind them but on their masks and started growling and stomping their feet while the priest bowed down in front of them.

Namahage putting on their masks

After about a minute, the fierce shouts quieted down and with heavy stomps, they disappeared back into the forest, setting the stage for the night’s events. It was an impressive start to a night that will stay in my memory for a long time. And despite the cold weather - it even started snowing by the end - we enjoyed every minute of it.

The massive bonfire in the middle of the area on the side of the mountain roared to life as performances unfolded—a theatrical skit featuring a tipsy Namahage and traditional dances around the bonfire. The highlight was a dramatic Japanese taiko performance where the ogres fiercely played the drums which echoed into the night.

After it seemed things have calmed down a bit and the Namahage took their leave, an ominous taiko music began playing. We starting hearing groaning from the forest above the grounds we were at and the light of torches started flickering through the trees. Above us from the dark forest came ominous growls and flickers of torchlight.

The Namahage coming out of the forest

One by one, the Namahage came out of the forest, holding huge torches and shouting their infamous phrases: “Namakemono wa inega?” (Are there any lazy kids here?) and “Naku ko wa inega?” (Are there any crying children?). Their deep voices resonated as they slowly descended down from the mountain and walked among the crowd, occasionally scaring the onlookers, mainly little kids which were the easiest targets.

We were warned not to touch them, but encouraged to pick up the straws that fall from their coats and bring them back home for good luck. Watching them interact with the audience—especially when the kids tried to put on a brave face—was both thrilling and heartwarming. They made a few rounds around the grounds making sure everyone has a chance to see them.

Seeing the Namahage up close

The ceremony concluded with the Namahage attempting to take freshly made mochi from the priest, only to be comically thwarted by its steaming heat. They took turns running down the stairs, and retreating after burning their fingers on the mochi. Eventually, they succeeded and retreated to the mountain where they came from.

"Uugh why is the mochi so hot!"

But the night wasn’t over yet. In a final unscripted act, the Namahage returned to mingle with the audience, posing for selfies and delivering one last round of scares. With frozen fingers, we snapped our own souvenir photo before catching the shuttle back to the hotel.

A high five with the Namahage

Back at Oga Kanko Hotel, dinner was waiting. A hearty spread of local dishes and a cold beer were just what we needed to thaw out and reflect on the incredible night. Our futons, laid out neatly by hotel staff, promised a well-earned rest and we fell asleep in a flash.

Dinner at the Oga Kanko Hotel

Morning brought another surprise: two Namahage were in our hotel lobby, still in full character, to bid guests farewell. They even followed us to the bus, growling and waving as we departed. The dedication of the locals to preserving this tradition is nothing short of inspiring.

The Namahage seeing us off inside the bus

If you ever get the chance to visit Oga during the Namahage Festival, bundle up, bring your sense of adventure, and prepare for an unforgettable journey into the heart of Japanese folklore. Just don’t let the Namahage catch you slacking… or crying!

The Festival takes place the first weekend in February. You can find all the details and book your tickets here: https://oganavi.com/sedo/en/

A little about the Legend and Legacy of the Namahage

The Namahage demons are a central figure in Japanese folklore and the Oga Peninsula's cultural traditions. They are portrayed as fierce, ogre-like beings with straw capes and terrifying masks, often red or blue, symbolizing their power and moral authority. Namahage rituals are intended to ward off laziness, instill discipline, and bring blessings of health and prosperity. Young men in the village would dress up as Namahage and make rounds around the houses looking for children or young wives to warn them not to be lazy. The ritual is supposed to invite good luck into the home for the new year. The performances are steeped in history and spiritual significance, embodying a unique blend of intimidation, humor, and cultural storytelling.