A Two-Day Adventure in Shiga: Discovering Kansai’s Best-Kept Secret
- Yanka
- Feb 23
- 11 min read
Updated: May 10
I have lived in the Kansai area for a while before moving to Tokyo and explored all the major spots - bustling streets of Osaka, temples in Kyoto, met the deer in Nara, visited the Ise shrine in Mie, waterfalls in Wakayama, and the city of Kobe in Hyogo—but somehow skipped right over Shiga. So, in the spirit of seeking out the lesser-known, less-visited gems of Japan, a friend and I embarked on a two-day, one-night getaway to this underrated prefecture. Spoiler alert: Shiga blew us away—and hardly any tourists in sight!
An Early Start & A Snowy Surprise
My journey began at the crack of dawn, boarding the 6:51 AM shinkansen from Shin-Yokohama to Kyoto. Few things beat the thrill of setting off on an adventure while the world is still dark. Armed with sakura green tea and a strawberry breakfast sandwich from a station convenience store, I settled into my seat on the Mount Fuji side of the train (the prime spot for that iconic view). Sure enough, Fuji-san made a majestic cameo and behind it was a clear blue sky with not a cloud in sight!
I hadn’t planned much beyond reserving a rental car and booking a guest house, so I spent most of the ride researching what to see in Shiga. Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest freshwater lake, is the prefecture’s main claim to fame, but I discovered a whole list of fascinating spots, from hidden shrines to architectural wonders.
Suddenly, I heard a silent "woaaah" from my fellow passengers, so I glanced up from my phone and did a double-take: there was a snow storm outside the train windows. In less than an hour, we’d gone from clear skies to a full-on winter wonderland! Funnily enough, this was happening just as we were passing through the Shiga prefecture. As we approached Kyoto, the snow eased up, giving way to blue skies again. Talk about weather mood swings!
Day 1: Lake Views, Sweet Treats & Historic Canals
Picking Up the Rental Car
Once in Kyoto, we grabbed our rental car. The staff recommended we upgrade to studded tires because Shiga’s weather has been all over the place these past two days. We took their advice, and we were happy we did as the roads did get pretty icy in some areas. With our music and the heater in the car turned up, we made our way to the Eastern side of the legendary Lake Biwa.
Mizugahama Chalet - Where Cozy Comfort Meets Lakeside Charm
Our first stop was a café with a stunning view: Mizugahama Chalet, a café that proudly claims to be the closest one to Lake Biwa. As we pulled into the parking lot, it was snowing heavily, but the moment we walked inside we were hugged by the warm atmosphere. The cafe interior was homey and woody, with a cozy stove fire and soothing background music. The terrace seats looked lovely, but maybe on a warmer day.
We snagged a table inside by the window, relishing a sandwich-cake-drink set as the weather brightened. It eventually cleared enough to see the mountains on the opposite shore, just as I was enjoying my delicious matcha mont blanc.
After paying we walked out to the terrace and took in the view one more time. This kind of spot is exactly why renting a car can be a game-changer when traveling—public transportation to such tucked-away gems isn’t always straightforward. But Shiga has many places acce by public transport as well, so do not worry if you are not a driver. We said one more goodbye to the resident ducks and were on our way to the next stop. An enchanting start, indeed.
La Collina: Where Nature-Inspired Architecture Meets Dessert Heaven
Next on the itinerary was La Collina, an architectural marvel by Terunobu Fujimori, who focuses on architecture inspired by nature. Imagine a gently sloping, grass-covered roof that seems to grow right out of the surrounding landscape. And today, it was also covered in snow. This is the flagship store of the Taneya Group, famous for both Japanese and Western confections.
We watched the mesmerizing process of making the German “tree cake” - baumkuchen, bough some for our friends as souvenirs and then headed for the cafe. Here, we enjoyed a freshly baked baumkuchen with cream and tea. In one word - HEAVENLY! We also tired the baumkuchen shake which was not bad, but let's juts say maybe not everything should be made into a shake.
We then wandered around La Collina’s various nooks and open terraces. Families with kids especially love this spot—the wide, open spaces are perfect for little ones to run off that sugar rush! It’s a lovely place to stretch your legs, snap some photos, and indulge in a sweet moment of relaxation.
Omi Hachiman: Canal Cruises & Merchant-Era Charms
Sweet tooth satisfied, we drove to Omi Hachiman City and parked near Himure Hachimangū, a shrine boasting over a thousand years of history. The grounds feature beautiful wooden structures and a hidden torii gate at the back, plus a charming ropeway up Mt. Hachiman for panoramic views—though we skipped it this time around.
There is a lot of the historical architecture preserved in the Omi Hachiman city, so if you enjoy traditional old houses, this would be the place for you. And in case you are planning your trip to Shiga in March, you are in luck, because you might just catch the Omihachiman Sagicho Fire Festival! This lively and dramatic fire festival features huge floats which are burned at the end in a fiery spectacle. It started snowing again as we explored the shrine, so we headed to the Hachiman-bori canal—once vital for transporting goods in the days of Omi merchants. These days, the canal hosts leisurely boat rides for tourists. We wanted to stop by the local brewery, but after finding out it was closed on this day, we changed our plans and hopped aboard one of the boats.
For 1,500 yen we drifting along for about 35 minutes as the guide narrated local stories. We took off our shoes as we boarded, as the main sitting part of the boat had tatami on the floor. There were also seating cushions to make it more comfortable and blankets in case we were cold. During the ride, we learned a lot about the town history from a recording that was played from the speakers. The gentle motion of the boat, the crisp winter air, and a golden hint of sunlight peeking through clouds—it felt almost meditative. Even our boat driver seemed to be rocked into sleep a few times. This boat ride must also be beautiful in spring, when the sakura are blooming or in the autumn colors.
By late afternoon, we were ready to call it a day. Though there was definitely more to discover, we headed toward our guesthouse for the night. Crossing the Biwako Bridge, we ventured into the Kyoto countryside, navigating some very narrow roads—excellent practice for any would-be driver in Japan. With the sun dipping low and our energy starting to wane, we were more than ready for a cozy evening ahead.
A Cozy Ryokan Night
Our lodging for the night was Yumoto Onsen Ohara Sanso, a cute guesthouse surrounded by hills, located in the scenic Ohara region. We entered through the sliding doors and as we took off our shoes we knew exactly where to put them as my name was written on one of the shoe shelves, Our room was simple yet cozy, with a view of snow-dusted mountains. We relaxed a little bit in the room, prepared our futons for the night (adding extra layers for maximum plushness) and headed for dinner.
The menu today was something I never had before - botan nabe. Botan nabe is a hearty hotpot made with wild boar meat. Besides meat we had a huge plate of vegetables to put into our hotpot - carrot, lettuce, onion, mushrooms, daikon and also tofu and noodles. We put all the ingredients in and watched as they were deliciously boiling. Of course, white rice and a number of side dishes were not missing either. The area is also known for shiso (perilla) leaves, so our meal featured shiso noodles, shiso liquor, and even some local craft beer. We ate to our hearts’ content, watching soft snowflakes swirl outside.
Back in our room, we took a minute to rest and then ventured to the onsen’s rotenburo (outdoor bath). The contrast of hot water with the chilly winter air was the perfect recipe for relaxation. Afterward, we tucked in to our futons to chat, watch a movie, and drifted off into a deep sleep.
Day 2: Temples, Terraces & Unconventional Hawaiian Vibes
I woke early, snuck in another tranquil onsen dip (had the whole place to myself!), then joined my friend for traditional breakfast: rice, small fish, pickled side dishes, and tofu boiled right at the table. Suitably fueled, we packed up, checked out and started day two in Shiga with one last Kyoto adventure.
Jakkoin Temple: Tea, Tranquility & Timeless Snowy Scenes
Just a three-minute stroll from our ryokan, we found Jakkoin Temple. After a short climb up the steps, we arrived at a serene, snow-dusted sanctuary. Inside the main hall, a friendly staff member shared stories of the temple’s long history. Unfortunately, due to recent snowfall, part of the complex was off-limits—but they more than made up for it by offering us cookies and hot tea on a cozy porch (a pretty sweet deal if you ask me).
At first, we nearly skipped the tea break, eager to move on to our next adventure. But it turned out to be a perfect reminder to pause and savor the moment. Sometimes travel can feel like a race against the clock, and this little detour helped us slow down, sip some tea, and appreciate the beauty right in front of us. Before heading out, we picked up a few souvenirs—among them, some intriguingly delicious sakura candy—and then strolled back down to the car, feeling refreshed and ready for the day’s journey ahead.
Biwako Terrace - The lake view from the clouds
Our next goal was to admire Lake Biwa from above, so we drove to the Biwako Terrace. In summer, it’s a beautiful hillside area offering sweeping views of the lake, but come winter, it transforms into a ski slope buzzing with snowboarders and skiers. After parking, we hopped on a free shuttle bus that took us up to the ropeway station, along with plenty snow enthusiasts in full gear.
The ropeway ride itself only lasted about five minutes—and fun fact, it’s the fastest ropeway in Japan! Once we reached the top, we headed straight for the viewpoint and, naturally, the café. It was a brisk -5°C up there, so while the panoramic vista of the snow-dusted lake was absolutely breathtaking, our faces were freezing.
We gladly took refuge inside the café, where we paid a little extra for prime window seats overlooking the lake. The interior was wonderfully toasty, complete with a central fireplace and huge windows overlooking the lake. In summer, they open them and you can even sit out on the terrace.
We savored sweets and coffee while warming up. After about an hour of cozy relaxation and lake-
gazing, we braved the cold again to catch the ropeway down, ready to continue our Shiga adventure.
R Café: Hawaiian Cocktails & Kotatsu—A Tropi-Japanese Fusion
Descending from the mountain, hunger hit us like a ton of bricks. Thankfully, I remembered a café I’d randomly bookmarked on Google Maps during my shinkansen ride to Kansai: R Café, a Hawaiian-themed spot right by the lake. Talk about a change of scenery—one minute we’re in snowy slopes, the next we’re practically in Hawaii!
At the entrance, we were asked if we’d like to sit inside or on the terrace. Since it was quite chilly, we nearly chose indoor seating—until we noticed kotatsu (heated tables) on the terrace! Of course, we went for the cozy option, sipping Hawaiian cocktails while staying toasty under warm blankets. It was a quirky but delightful fusion of tropical vibes and classic Japanese comfort. We chatted away, snapped some photos, and fully embraced our much-needed downtime.
R Café also offers occasional music performances and water sports in the summer, giving you a front-row seat to the vast beauty of Lake Biwa. They occasionally host sunrise or full-moon yoga sessions right by the water, too. Imagine rolling out of bed, stepping onto a lakeside yoga mat, and saluting the sun as it rises over Japan’s largest freshwater lake. Not a bad way to start (or end) the day, right?
Shirahige Shrine - Enchantment of a Floating Torii
After a short drive, we arrived at our next stop: Shirahige Shrine—reputed to be a “power spot” and best known for its torii gate that appears to float on Lake Biwa, reminiscent of Hiroshima’s famous Itsukushima Shrine.
We parked the car and took some time to explore the shrine’s grounds before heading to the main viewing point. The shrine enshrines Sarutahiko Ōkami, a deity with a long white beard—hence the name “Shirahige,” which literally means “white beard.” This deity is often associated with longevity, guidance, and safe travels.
Between the parking area and the lake, there’s a rather busy road—definitely not ideal for snapping photos. Thankfully, there’s a designated viewing platform to keep you safe (and your pictures fabulous). The view from there is lovely, but if you’re aiming for that perfect shot, planning ahead can pay off. For something extra memorable, you can book a kayak or SUP (stand-up paddleboard) tour that takes you right to the gate itself. Not only will you get a unique angle for photos, but you’ll also have an awesome adventure on the water!
Ukimido - The Picture-Perfect ‘Floating Temple’ of Otsu
With just enough time for one final sight, we headed to Ukimido, a picturesque temple famously known as the “floating temple” on Lake Biwa. Located in Otsu, the capital of Shiga Prefecture, Ukimido belongs to Mangetsu-ji, a historic temple with roots tracing back over a thousand years. Otsu itself is steeped in history, once serving as a key transportation hub between Kyoto and eastern Japan, and it still retains that old-world charm today.
We arrived with about ten minutes to spare before closing (5 PM), so our visit was brief but magical—especially when we spotted a friendly cat roaming around, as if guarding the temple’s secrets. Despite the limited time, it felt like stepping into a timeless postcard: the gentle lapping of the lake against the wooden platform, the soft echo of temple bells lingering in the air.
Reluctantly, we made our way out when the staff politely reminded us they were closing. Before leaving the area, we wandered over to a nearby park for a few parting photos of Ukimido set against the purple-tinged sky. The reflection of the temple lights on the lake created a serene, almost otherworldly atmosphere—one of those moments you wish you could bottle up and take home.
By the time we boarded the shinkansen home, a tinge of sadness crept in. There’s always that bittersweet feeling when a trip nears its end, especially one packed with so many new discoveries. We consoled ourselves by cracking open a couple of celebratory beers, toasting to the memories of snow-capped mountains, hidden shrines, friendly locals, and epic lake views.
Why Shiga Should Be on Your Kansai Bucket List
Shiga might just be Kansai’s best-kept secret, offering the perfect blend of nature, history, and culture—minus the tourist throngs. If you’re hunting for a low-key adventure with high-impact memories, put Shiga on your list. Trust me—once you see that sunset over Lake Biwa, you’ll wonder why you didn’t visit sooner.
More information about the places we visited:
Shiga official site: https://en.biwako-visitors.jp/
Mizugahama Chalet: https://en.biwako-visitors.jp/spot/detail/143
La Collina: https://taneya.jp/la_collina/
Omi Hachiman: https://en.biwako-visitors.jp/spot/detail/37
Yumoto Onsen Ohara Sanso: https://ohara-sansou.com/
Jakkoin: https://www.jakkoin.jp/
Biwako Valley: https://www.biwako-valley.com/en
R Cafe: https://www.rcafe.jp/
Shirahige Shrine: https://en.biwako-visitors.jp/spot/detail/306
And if you’re into more active adventures, Shiga won’t disappoint! You can go skiing at Biwako Valley in winter, try wind-surfing or paddleboarding on Lake Biwa in summer, or even cycle around the lake for a full scenic tour (it’s known as ‘Biwaichi’ among hardcore cycling enthusiasts).
But trust me, there’s still so much more to discover in this underrated prefecture. Next time, I’ve got my eye on a few spots (and maybe you should, too!):
Miho Museum A hidden architectural gem set in a lush forest, featuring a magnificent art collection. https://www.miho.jp
Tarobo ShrineA dramatic cliffside shrine offering sweeping views and a dash of mysticism.http://tarobou.sakura.ne.jp/
Hikone Famous for its well-preserved Hikone Castle and the adorable samurai cat mascot, Hikonyan. https://www.hikoneshi.com
Shizugatake Steeped in history (it’s the site of famous battles) and boasting panoramic vistas of Lake Biwa. https://www.biwako-visitors.jp/spot/detail/690
Avenue of Metasequoia TreesA spectacular, Instagram-worthy road lined with towering Metasequoia trees—breathtaking in every season. https://www.biwako-visitors.jp/spot/detail/133
Safe travels and happy exploring!
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