Family in Tokyo - a 10 day itinerary (Part 3.) Kyoto, Nara, Shibuya, Tokyo Tower

Day 7: A Trip to Kyoto - Exploring Arashiyama

On Thursday morning, we boarded the Shinkansen and set off for Kyoto. To our delight, we were offered a special accessible space for the wheelchair, which made the journey even more comfortable. It was also the first shinkansen ride for my family which was very exciting!

Kyoto holds a special place in my heart. I spent time there as a student and later during my working holiday. Though it has become quite touristy in recent years, I still recommend it to anyone interested in Japan. Kyoto was Japan’s capital for over 1,000 years and remains its cultural and historical heart. Here, you’ll find many temples and shrines, including the Golden Pavilion "Kinkakuji", the Imperial Palace, the beautiful Nijo Castle, and wooden buildings that remind you of how the city once looked. Surrounded by mountains, the Kamogawa River runs through the center of the city, where people gather in the evening to drink and chat under the open sky. But enough about my love for Kyoto and back to our trip. Around lunchtime, we arrived in Kyoto and decided to head straight to Arashiyama, as there was a direct train from Kyoto Station.

Arashiyama, located in western Kyoto, is best known for its bamboo forest. But there is much more to see here and even though the area around the station can get a bit crowded, wondering a little bit further away will allow you to enjoy the chill atmosphere of this area by the river.

We strolled across the Togetsukyo Bridge and split into two groups – the adventurous group and the chill group. The adventurous group climbed "Monkey Mountain," while the others enjoyed traditional green tea at Cafe Hassui, with breathtaking views of the river. We eventually all met up at the cafe and after enjoying some matcha green tea and traditional Japanese sweets set, we headed towards the bamboo forest.

We once again split ways - one group went through the observatory at the the top of the Arashiyama park and the other made they way through the Tenryu-ji temple. By evening, the crowds had thinned and we met at the top of the bamboo forrest, making our way through it at a leisurely pace.

We were starting to get hungry and very randomly found an amazing dinner spot – Arashiyama Miyoshitei, which offers delicious hitsumabushi. Hitsumabushi is a dish of grilled meat on rice, eaten four ways. It’s usually made with eel, but at the restaurant we found, they served it with high-quality, delicious wagyu beef. And what are the four ways to eat it? You divide it into quarters and in your separate bowl you eat it: 1) as it is, juts meat and rice 2) with an egg 3) with side dishes 4) with broth.

What’s special about this dish is not just the amazing taste, but the entire experience of eating it and trying the different textures and tastes.

With full stomachs, we returned to the station at sunset, enjoying a walk through the illuminated "kimono forest" – a path lined with poles decorated in various kimono patterns near Arashiyama Station. There is actually a foot bath hidden inside the Arashiyama station, but it was already closed for the day.

We were very happy with out walk though and made our way back to the hotel - Doubletree by Hilton. After checking in we headed out for a night walk through Kyoto. First, we wandered through smaller streets, then moved on to a larger road. The shops were already closed, but the restaurants and bars were still open.

We decided to stop by Torikizoku and were happy to find they had an open table for six. By coincidence, it was the same izakaya we had visited 10 years ago, when my family first visited Japan so we reminisced about that trip over a drink. Or two.. of more. We ended our night with a walk along the Kamogawa river, which is the beating heart of Kyoto. At night, people gather along the river bang to enjoy the fresh air, chat and sometimes listen to the local buskers.

Arashiyama: https://www.insidekyoto.com/arashiyama

Monkey Mountain: http://www.monkeypark.jp/eng-index.html

Cafe Hassui: https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/ukylc-suiran-a-luxury-collection-hotel-kyoto/overview/

Arashiyama Miyoshitei: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g298564-d25315724-Reviews-Wagyu_to_Kyodofu_Arashiyama_Miyoshitei-Kyoto_Kyoto_Prefecture_Kinki.html

Torikizoku: https://torikizoku.co.jp/

Day 8: Kiyomizudera Temple, the Nara Deer Park and buddhas nose-hole

After breakfast, we headed straight to one of my favorite places in Kyoto – Kiyomizudera Temple. This temple is located in eastern Kyoto and offers a beautiful view of the city. There are several paths you can take to reach it. I most recommend to take the one from Yasaka Shrine, up through Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka streets lines with small shops and restaurants and reaching the temple from the front. However, since it was already close to 9 a.m., we chose to take the quieter back alley that runs alongside one of the largest cemeteries I’ve ever seen. The path was steep but peaceful, and we enjoyed the unique scenery.

When we arrived at the temple, it was already quite crowded. This time, though, the crowd wasn’t made up of foreign tourists but of students. In Japan, when you encounter a school trip, you can expect at least 100 uniformed kids, not just there to see the sights but also to practice their English. They’ll come up to you, ask a few questions like “Where are you from?” and “What’s your favorite Japanese food?” and quickly jot down your answers before requesting a photo. For some reason, they really love my dad – maybe because he is a big guy, but has a really kind smile. At one point, we lost sight of him, only to find him surrounded by kids, gesturing wildly to explain something. It was a bit funny and honestly, really wholesome moment that added to the charm of our morning.

After the school group passed through the temple, it suddenly emptied out and we could take some more time to enjoy the magnificent structure and the views of the city. We also bought some omamori, or protection amulets, which are believed to offer blessings for various aspects of life – health, financial prosperity, academic success, and more. These small, colorful pouches are beautifully made and can be found at temples and shrines all over Japan. You can also try omikuji here - you shake a box and let one stick fall out of it. You tell the number that was written on the stick to a lady at the window and she will hand you your fortune. If it’s a good one, you’re encouraged to keep it; if it’s not, tie it to a nearby rack or tree branch, symbolically leaving the bad luck behind as you walk away.

Our next stop in the Kansai region was Nara, famous for its giant Buddha statue – one of the largest in the world – and its hundreds of freely roaming deer. Nara Park is known for its historical importance as well as for these charming deer, which were once considered sacred messengers of the gods in Shinto tradition. We set off from the station toward Todai-ji Temple and encountered our first deer just a few meters in. Then another, and another… until we were surrounded by dozens! Vendors along the path sell special shika senbei, or deer crackers, for about 200 yen – but beware, once the deer see you with these treats, they’ll follow you relentlessly! If you don’t share quickly enough, they might nudge you or even nibble on your bag or clothes. My mom chose the ideal shirt for this trip - a white shirt with green leaves on it. Yes, the deer did try to eat it at one point :D.

Over the years, the deer have learned a trick: if they bow to tourists, they’re more likely to get a treat in return. It’s fascinating to see them lower their heads and look up, a bow-like gesture that’s both adorable and a little comical – a perfect moment for your next Instagram video!

After maneuvering through this “deer army,” we finally arrived at Todai-ji Temple. The main hall, housing the Great Buddha, is one of the largest wooden structures in the world. Seeing the enormous Buddha statue inside is truly awe-inspiring. You can walk around the entire statue, and in one corner of the hall, there’s a famous pillar with a small hole at its base. The hole is said to be the same size as the Buddha’s nostril, and legend has it that squeezing through grants you good luck or the fulfillment of a wish. Watching people of all ages (and flexibility levels!) attempt to crawl through is a spectacle in itself.

As the day wound down, we headed back to the station, stomachs rumbling, and finished our Kansai adventure with a hearty Korean BBQ dinner. The restaurant brought plates of fresh meat and veggies to our table, where we grilled them on a sizzling built-in grill. The rich aroma, the hands-on experience, and the satisfying taste were the perfect ending to our memorable day. We then returned to Kyoto and got on a shinkansen back to Tokyo. As we have arrived in the Tokyo station, we have decided to use this opportunity and enjoy the night view of the lit up station building from the outside and the Marunouchi business district.

Kyomizudera: https://www.kiyomizudera.or.jp/en/

Nara: https://www.visitnara.jp/

Day 9: Visiting Hachiko and a Summer Festival in Tokyo

On our second to last day in Tokyo, we still hadn’t visited the famous Hachiko statue so it was time to brave the crowds of Shibuya! Surprisingly, the crowds were not that bad, event hough it was a Saturday. We did have to line up to take a picture, but we did not need to wait that long and within a few minutes, we had our photo with Hachiko. Mission accomplished!

Next, we crossed the Shibuya scramble crossing, often called the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, where as many as 3,000 people can cross at a single green light during peak hours!

We wanted to see from above as well, so we walked into a nearby Starbucks, which has a prime view of road below. We lucked out, snagging seats right in front of the massive windows where we could watch hundreds of people streaming across the street with each green light. It was like watching a perfectly orchestrated dance – an endless wave of people moving in every direction.

With temperatures soaring above 30 degrees, we decided to stay indoors for a while and headed to LOFT. This seven-floor paradise is packed with everything from unique stationery and Japanese souvenirs to kitchenware and travel bags. If you’re planning to visit, set aside at least an hour to explore – there’s something for everyone, and it’s the perfect escape from the heat.

After some shopping, we decided to head somewhere less touristy: my apartment! My family was curious to see where I live. My neighbors, who aren’t used to seeing so many foreigners, were understandably intrigued. It was kind of cute to see them peek out of their windows to check what is going on. To top it off, “coincidentally,” a person from my real estate agency stopped by to check on a nearby apartment that is for rent and said hi to us.

Our timing was actually perfect because a local summer festival was underway. Men and women dressed in traditional happi coats carried mikoshi – portable shrines – on their shoulders, rhythmically shaking and chanting as they paraded through the streets. We followed them for a little bit and then stopped near a small square where the parade was waiting to set out to the streets again. There were a few small stands with sweets, games for the kids and shaved ice as well! As we stood there watching, I suddenly heard someone calling my name. I hadn’t noticed that we were right in front of my real estate office, where the agents had set up a sake stand for the festival. Before I knew it, I had three cups of sake in hand to share with my family. It was a lovely unexpected local experience.

We ended the evening at my favorite spot – an Irish pub called Clann. When the owner realized I’d brought my family, he started bringing us complimentary food and drinks. My family tried to balance things out by ordering more, wanting to support the business so a consequence we drunk and ate a lot here :D We enjoyed food, drinks, and laughter, filling our last evening together with wonderful memories before heading back to the hotel.

Day 10: Final Day - Tokyo Tower, Yebisu Brewery and Farewell to Tokyo

The final day :( The ten days really went by in a flash, but we still had almost the whole day before my family board the plane at the Haneda airport in the evening. We left their luggage at the hotel and booked a taxi to take us to the airport in the evening. With about eight hours to spare, we had plenty of time for one last Tokyo adventure.

We have decided to visit a true landmark of Tokyo - the Tokyo Tower. Though it’s a lot lower and smaller than the Skytree, which we visited on the second day of the trip, it offers lovely views of the city and the Tokyo Bay. On the first two floors of the building below the tower there are souvenir shops and restaurants, which was perfect as we could pick up some last-minute souvenirs. After grabbing our tickets, we rode up to the observation deck, where the view was truly lovely and it was not crowded at all. We walked around the area and enjoyed the glass floors as well as a video about the history of the tower.

With some time left in the day, we headed for one last area of Tokyo we wanted to explore -Ebisu. Known for its chic architecture, cozy cafes, and luxurious shops, Ebisu is a go-to for urban sophistication. But I had a hidden gem in mind for my family: the Yebisu Beer Museum. Founded in 1890, Yebisu Brewery is legendary in Japan. At the museum you can take a tour to learn about the history and process of Yebisu’s brewing and (best of all) taste several varieties of this iconic brew. We had a mini taste test, comparing everything from the classic Yebisu to seasonal specials. For beer lovers the Yebisu Brewery tour is a must!

As our departure time approached, we made our way back to Shibuya for one last meal. I decided to take my family to a place I often frequent - Shake Shack! Not very Japanese, you might think, but their terrace seating is amazing when Tokyo’s summer heat finally cools.

With full stomachs we headed to the airport where I said goodbye to my family. Watching my family board their flight, I knew there was so much we hadn’t yet explored – Tokyo and Kyoto are cities that keep you coming back for more! And as a result, I’m now inspired to put together a few itineraries that capture our favorites and make trip planning just a bit easier for other travelers. After all, the journey is half the fun – the other half is the memories.

Tokyo Tower: https://en.tokyotower.co.jp/

Yebisu Brewery: https://www.sapporobeer.jp/english/brewery/y_museum/