A Cozy Autumn Trip to Fukushima

It was about time to add a new prefecture to my “visited” list. It had also been a while since my friend and I went on a girls onsen trip together, so after a few busy weeks at work, a relaxing weekend getaway sounded like the perfect plan.

Of course, leave it to us to book everything just two days before heading out. To make it even more fun, it happened to be a three-day weekend, meaning almost everything was already fully booked or ridiculously expensive. But somehow, with a bit of persistence (and maybe a touch of magic), we managed to find a lovely onsen hotel tucked away in the peaceful countryside of Fukushima Prefecture.

Now, Fukushima might sound familiar to many because of the nuclear accident in March 2011, but there’s so much more to this beautiful region than that tragic chapter. It’s a vast prefecture filled with mountains, lakes, hot springs, ski resorts, and warm-hearted locals. If you’ve never considered visiting, let me tell you - it’s worth it. We only had two days and one night, but we discovered enough charm to make us want to return again soon.

Getting There

We started our trip by taking the shinkansen to Kōriyama. Most seats were sold out, but here’s a tip: people often cancel their tickets a day before travel, so checking again at the last minute can pay off. With a bit of luck, we scored two seats next to each other, leaving from Tokyo Station at 10:00. Coffee in hand, we felt the excitement building as the train sped north. We often rent cars on our trips, but this time, we would only use public transportation for our trip, so follow along even if you do not drive in Japan.

Arriving in Kōriyama, we had about an hour to kill before our local train. In the countryside, trains often come only once an hour, or even less frequently depending on how far you are from bigger cities. We explored a shopping mall connected to the station, and couldn’t resist stopping by a confectionery store where we picked up two chocolate banana cream cakes for dessert later. It was officially turning into a proper girls’ trip.

From there, we took the local train to Inawashiro, where we’d wait for the shuttle bus to our hotel.

An interesting fact about Inawashiro is that it is the birthplace of Hideyo Noguchi, the scientist featured the previous Japan’s 1000-yen bill! (Though he has been replaced by Shibasaburo Kitasato, a pioneer of modern Japanese medicine on the new bill in 2024)

The station was small and quiet, almost no people around. We wanted to visit the famous Inawashiro lake (also known as the “Heavenly Mirror Lake”), but quickly learned that taxis weren’t as easy to find as in Tokyo. After calling a taxi company and hearing it would take at least 15 minutes to arrange one, we gave up and decided to have lunch at a little café near the station instead.

A Warm Welcome in a Local Café

As soon as we stepped inside, we were greeted by a friendly obāchan (Japanese grandma). The place was nearly full, but luckily, the counter seats were open! Or so we thought.. To our surprise (and mild embarrassment), she asked a gentleman sitting alone at a table to move to the counter so we could sit there instead. Gomennasai, mister…! 

The café had an irori (a traditional sunken hearth) near the entrance, surrounded by what we assumed were chatting locals. It felt wonderfully nostalgic and homey. We ordered one beer to share, and for lunch, my friend got beef curry while I went for napolitan pasta, both very delicious. The beer hit just right after our train ride and we were ready to continue our journey.

A Hotel in the Mountains and a Hidden Waterfall

The shuttle bus arrived right on time and the 20-minute ride took us deeper into the mountains.

Our hotel, Bonari no Mori, was a cozy onsen ryokan hotel surrounded by autumn foliage. While checking in, we noticed they offered colorful rental yukata at the front desk for just 500 yen each. Of course we couldn’t resist. The regular yukata in the rooms was nice and simple, but these were cute, with flower patterns, and perfect for a mini photoshoot later.

Our room was spacious, with tatami floors and a big window overlooking rustling leaves and a small stream below. The crisp autumn air flowed in as we opened the window, and the gentle sound of running water made everything feel peaceful. On the table waited a small tray of welcome sweets to be enjoyed with tea - a detail I always love in Japanese inns.

After a short rest, we decided to head out while it was still light outside to see a small waterfall we’d spotted on the map earlier. The road was quiet, maybe two or three cars passed us during our 15-minute walk. Finding the trail entrance was a bit tricky, but once we did, after just a short walk we found the small waterfall.

Tucked away in a forested valley, it was just us, the sound of the water, and the singing birds.

The air smelled fresh, as if it was about to rain. After spending most of our days buried in office work in the grey Tokyo abyss, this little pocket of nature was exactly what we needed. We lingered for a while, soaking in the atmosphere, testing how cold the stream was, taking photos, and just breathing a bit more freely.

That said… the “Beware of bears” sign we’d passed earlier was definitely still sitting at the back of our minds so we decided it was the best to head back before it starts getting dark.

On our walk, we also passed a small shrine - one of the many reasons I love exploring Japan. There’s always this quiet, almost cinematic feeling around shrines, like an amazing story could unfold at any moment. The stone torii gate stood at the entrance, and smaller red ones lead up a long staircase that disappeared into a dark forest… and, well, we definitely did not have the courage to follow them today.

Because let’s be honest: you never know if the story waiting for you is the beginning of a magical adventure or the start of a horror movie. And with the number of bear sightings in Japan this year, we were not about to take any chances.

Now that I’m writing this, I do feel a bit like a scaredy cat—but hey, at least I’m a scaredy cat who’s alive and well. Dinner & Onsen Bliss

By the time we returned, it was nearly dinner time. We headed to the dining hall where our table was already set with a colorful spread of small dishes, both familiar and mysterious, each bursting with flavor. The main course was a small shabu-shabu, a Japanese hot pot where you swish thin slices of beef and vegetables in boiling broth before dipping them in sauce.

The rice was served in a small clay pot (kamameshi style) with ginger and mushrooms. The staff told us it would be ready when the candle beneath it burned out. Everything tasted incredible. Naturally, we ordered a beer to go with it.

When we returned to our room, our futons had already been laid out - one of my favorite ryokan traditions. Although I do remember my days working in a ryokan and how happy I was when guests said they’d do it themselves and I did not have to do it.

After a short break, we changed into our colorful yukata and headed to the rotenburo (open-air bath). The onsen water was the perfect temperature, and soaking in it while surrounded by cool mountain air felt heavenly. Some onsen tend to be too hot, so you cannot really enjoy yourself for a long time, but this was really hit the spot.

Of course, no onsen session is complete without the post-bath ritual: flavored milk! I went for strawberry, my friend for coffee flavor.

Absolute perfection!

Even though we were still stuffed from dinner, our betsubara (second stomach for dessert) was ready. We enjoyed our chocolate banana cakes, chatted late into the night, and fell asleep in the soft futons, dreaming of a world where all we do is travel around Japan. Day 2

We woke up early to enjoy a peaceful morning dip in the onsen. The baths for women and men had switched overnight, so this time we got to experience a completely different rotenburo (open-air bath). This was was a bit smaller, but relaxing nonetheless. As the steam rose gently into the crisp mountain air and we felt this was the perfect start to the day.

Breakfast was buffet-style, meaning one thing: try a little bit of everything. From grilled fish and miso soup to fluffy scrambled eggs and bread with jam, we filled our trays with all the flavors possible.

After returning to our room, we did our mini yukata photoshoot, with golden autumn leaves glowing just outside our window. A few dozens of photos later, we packed up, said goodbye to our lovely tatami room, and hopped onto the shuttle bus back to the Inawashiro station. TARO CAFÉ — A Hidden Gem by the Lake

We weren’t quite ready to leave Inawashiro just yet. There was one more place we had to visit and that was the café we had missed the day before. We found a local bus that dropped us nearby, then walked about 10 minutes until we spotted it: TARO CAFÉ, just about to open for the day.

There was no one waiting at the door, but a few cars were already parked nearby. As we reached the entrance, the staff came out and opened the café right at that moment - perfect timing (though we did feel a little guilty for those waiting in their cars! Sorry!).

I ordered an apple pie and a hot latte, while my friend chose a cheesecake and iced latte.

We sat on the terrace, overlooking a peaceful field with the lake shimmering in the distance.

The waiter looked straight out of a shōjo manga - cool, polite, and with the kind of perfect manners that would fit right into a butler café. My latte even came with a cute bunny latte art on top, which was super cute.

After our caffeine fix, we walked down toward the lake itself and decided to walk the 25 minutes back to the station as there weren’t many buses. The conversation flowed easily, as always. We talked about work, life, relationships… I’m still amazed how we never run out of things to say. One thing we discussed was how it would be to live and work in the Japanese countryside. Must be a great experience where you get to know the locals, learn about the culture and maybe even take part in the local traditions. But could also be quite lonely, if you don't have ant close friends.. let me know if you have such an experience! Aizu-Wakamatsu - The Samurai City

From Inawashiro Station, we caught the train to Aizu-Wakamatsu, our main destination for the day.

As soon as we arrived, we spotted the cute red tourist bus right in front of the station. It was inspired by Akabeko, Fukushima’s iconic red cow mascot.

Akabeko is a red papier-mâché cow believed to protect against illness. It originates from Aizu and has become one of Fukushima’s most beloved symbols. You’ll find it everywhere - as toys, charms, or cute souvenirs. Legend says its head keeps nodding because it never stops working, symbolizing perseverance and good health. Aizu-Wakamatsu is a historic city in western Fukushima, famous for its samurai heritage. It’s home to Tsuruga Castle, charming old streets, and traditional crafts like Aizu lacquerware. The city blends samurai history with warm hospitality and some of the best sake in the region.

But back to our trip. After a 10-minute ride, we got off at the foot of the hill leading up to Sazaedō Temple. The slope was lined with small souvenir shops and a cozy stand selling freshly steamed manjū.

We tried an awa-manju - a traditional steamed bun made with awa (millet) mixed into the dough, giving it a gentle golden color and nutty flavor. It is filled with sweet red bean paste and known as a nostalgic treat loved in the Tohoku region.

Now fully recharged after the delicious snack, we began our climb up the hill… or rather, we didn’t. Because next to the stairway was something quite unexpected - an escalator!

A loudspeaker announcement cheerfully warned that the stairs were very steep and encouraged visitors to take the easy route. For 250 yen, we were whisked up the slope on a moving walkway, watching others heroically conquer the stairs below. When we reached the top, we could see them reaching the top red-faced, slightly out of breath, but proud.

Sazaedō Temple - The Spiral Spiritual Wonder After wondering around a bit we made it to Sazaedō. Built in 1796, Sazaedō is officially called Entsūsansōkaku. Its unique double spiral structure lets visitors go up and down without ever crossing paths, symbolizing the Buddhist path to enlightenment.

The wooden tower spirals upward in a gentle slope, no stairs, just a continuous winding path leading to the top. Before we knew it, we were at the top and then spiraling back down again. It was much quicker that we though, as we had other visitors in front of us and behind us, not leaving much space to stop and take in the magic of the place.

With our sightseeing complete, we stopped by a small café right next to the temple. It was surprisingly quiet and there was just one young girl running the whole place.

We ordered coffee and a "half waffle", choosing the seats by the window. The café overlooked the city below, with a terrace outside and it was so surprising that there was almost nobody else there besides us. It was the kind of place where I could spend an entire afternoon writing or reading, enjoying the view.

The waffles were .. probably reheated in a microwave, but what they lacked in culinary finesse, they made up for in ambience. Plus, there were power outlets which was exactly what we needed to charge our phones before heading out again.

Back at the base of the hill, we grabbed a cheese-bacon kushikatsu - deep-fried skewers. Yes, yes, it sounds very unhealthy and probably was but to be fair we did not have lunch and needed something savory after all that sweet. They were gone in almost an instant and we were ready to head towards the city center.

We caught a taxi which dropped us right in front of the Showa Nostalgia Museum. We were greeted by lovely staff, who explained that two floors are filled with retro Japanese items from the 1950s–70s. Old phones, electronics, posters, street signs.. every corner was a little time machine.

A local dinner in Aizu As evening fell, the streets grew quiet and the clouds started to roll in. We set off in search of dinner, guided (somewhat unreliably) by Google Maps through backstreets that were almost empty. Our first choice was closed, the second fully booked, and the third dark with no sign. Are we going to leave without dinner today??

Just when we started to get a bit worried, we found a small yakiniku-style izakaya, which was open and had a welcoming atmosphere.

Inside, the owner stood behind the counter, chatting with a few locals seated in front of it. Along with his shy 12-year-old daughter who - he proudly told us - could speak English, and kept encouraging her to talk to us. Despite us speaking to them in Japanese, his enthusiasm in English never wavered. After many many encouragements, the daughter did talk to us for juuust a little bit. We learned that she plays in a school band and liked the K-pop Demon hunters movie.

Their otōshi (a small appetizer automatically served when you sit down at an izakaya) felt like a full meal. It was a mix of vegetables, squid, and small fish which we cooked right on the grill at our table. We ordered a few more dishes, laughed, and soaked up the cozy atmosphere. Somehow, everything worked out just right, even though we did not plan too much.

It was the perfect ending to our weekend in Fukushima - unexpected and warm.

Finally, we made our way back to the station, caught the train to Kōriyama, and then the shinkansen back to Tokyo. Tired, happy, and filled with memories — just the way every good trip should end.

→Photo Gallery from this trip ←

Hotel Bonari no Mori: https://www.meito-bonari.com/ Cafe Manpei (Inawashiro): https://tabelog.com/en/fukushima/A0705/A070502/7003732/ TARO CAFE: http://taro-cafe.com/ Aizu Wakamatsu official page: https://samurai-city.jp/tourist/en/ 1/3 Cafe: https://tabelog.com/en/fukushima/A0705/A070501/7019380/