A Cozy Autumn Trip to Gifu

Yanka
Aug 3
5 min read

The beginning of the story is actually quite fun. One of our friends from Slovakia was planning to visit Japan, and a girls' trip was long overdue. We didn't have any specific location in mind; the important thing was that we were exploring somewhere new together. Honestly, there's something beautiful and interesting in each and every one of Japan’s 47 prefectures.

So, how did we decide? Well... how about rolling a dice? Or in our case we used a random number generator, and the lucky winner was number 21... Gifu!

I had visited Gifu briefly in the past, but this would be my first deep dive into the prefecture. I was excited (or as excited as I could be while feeling like my life was falling apart at that time). We planned to spend three days and two nights there. We took the shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagoya and then a local train to the Gifu Station, where we rented a car. I was the designated driver, which honestly, I didn't mind since I love driving. Something about winding through the Japanese countryside makes it feel kind of therapeutic.

We had our accommodation booked, but otherwise, we decided to figure things out as we went—well, except one thing: the lantern festival in Mino City.

Mino City is famous for its traditional paper-making industry, dating back over 1,300 years. The city has preserved its historic architecture beautifully, with charming wooden houses reminiscent of Kyoto but with wider fronts facing the streets—a sign of the prosperous merchant class that once thrived here. Many buildings feature "udatsu" walls, raised extensions designed to prevent fires from spreading, another indication of the city's historical wealth.

We arrived after a lovely drive from Gifu City. Since we had some time before check-in, we visited a local cafe called "Mam's," a cozy bakery-cafe with a lovely garden terrace. Sipping matcha latte and enjoying delicious chocolate bread that amusingly resembled a tree branch was a perfect start to our adventure.

After our relaxing snack, we strolled around the city, noticing plastic boxes set out for the lanterns but no actual lanterns yet. A bit puzzled, we checked an event poster and discovered a shocking truth—the lantern festival actually started... tomorrow! Suddenly, our last-minute booking luck made sense.

Instead of crying over spilled milk, we made the most of it. Thankfully, Mino City has a small museum dedicated to the lantern festival, displaying stunning lanterns from previous years and sharing the event's history. It might not have been the real thing, but it gave us a lovely taste of the festival's charm.

Our accommodation, Nipponia Mino, turned out to be absolutely incredible. This beautifully restored traditional Japanese home featured five tatami rooms across two floors. The first floor included a cozy sitting area, a low table overlooking an inner garden, and a bathroom with a fragrant cedar wood bathtub. Upstairs, two inviting bedrooms and a futon room awaited. Exploring and photographing the charming space became a delightful highlight. I highly recommend staying in a traditional Japanese house if you have the chance—it truly immerses you in the local atmosphere.

Before dinner, we walked to a nearby viewpoint on a hill overlooking the city. Watching the sunset was magical, though returning down the mountain in the dark was a bit spooky—thank goodness there were three of us! To unwind from our mini-adventure, we stopped by the River Port Brewery, a hidden gem tucked away among residential buildings, accessible through a narrow hallway and inner garden. Their craft beer was delightful.

For dinner, we found a lovely izakaya serving kushikatsu. Among all the tasty dishes, the standout was an incredible potato salad with smoked cheese. It was honestly one of the most delicious things I'd ever tasted. Curious, we asked the staff about the secret ingredient, prompting the chef himself to emerge for a friendly chat. Upon learning we were staying at Nipponia, he delightedly informed us he would be preparing our breakfast and promised to include the amazing potato salad.

The next morning, I woke up early to photograph the peaceful, empty streets, soaking in the serene October air. Breakfast back at Nipponia was wonderful, featuring various dishes, miso soup and warm rice.

We then took a leisurely walk around Mino, grabbed another coffee, and set off on our next adventure. Our first stop was the peaceful waterfall - Iwatomisan Fudo Myoo Waterfall. It was a brief ten-minute walk from the parking lot, and the serene, magical ambiance of the deserted waterfall momentarily transported us away from reality.

Next, we visited the famous Monet’s Pond, a crystal-clear pond filled with colorful koi fish, reflecting the sky above, creating an enchanting illusion of fish swimming in the sky. There were quite a few people around, including a lovely local who provided us with information about the pond for free. He mentioned he comes to the pond often to talk to visitors. Despite the cloudy weather, the pond was very photogenic so we did snapped a few shots before moving on to reach out accomodation for the day.

By the time we reached our second-night accommodation, Sumireso, an older but charming ryokan, rainclouds had fully set in. We did make a few wring turns on the way, but managed to find it and were warmly welcomed by the staff. Our spacious room and comforting dinner made for a cozy evening, though admittedly, the long, dark hallway leading to the bathrooms was a bit eerie at night!

We awoke to persistent rain, a fitting backdrop to my lingering melancholy mood. After another hearty breakfast, we set off toward our final destination: Shirakawago.

Shirakawago is famed for its traditional houses with thick, thatched roofs known as "gassho-zukuri," a style named for its resemblance to hands pressed together in prayer. These roofs require careful annual maintenance by the community, demonstrating the villagers’ collective spirit and dedication to preserving their heritage. The village is especially picturesque in winter, with snow blanketing the roofs and warm, inviting lights glowing from windows, making it seem straight out of a fairy tale.

Despite the drizzling rain, we parked with help from a friendly parking attendant and warmed up at Kyoshu Café, a charming spot overlooking a rice fields. The café featured rustic wooden interiors and large panoramic windows, creating a cozy atmosphere perfect for watching the rain gently fall. We enjoyed comforting baumkuchen cake and hot coffee, feeling completely relaxed.

Afterwards, we explored Shirakawago leisurely, capturing countless photos of its quaint streets, lush gardens, and iconic houses. We stopped by the famous "triplet houses," three charming gassho-zukuri buildings standing side-by-side, offering one of the most beloved photo opportunities in the village.

Picking up delicious pudding souvenirs, we visited a quieter, separate area across the parking lot. Here, fewer tourists wandered, and we found ourselves immersed in nature’s peaceful embrace, surrounded by historic buildings that seemed untouched by time—a truly serene way to end our journey.

Looking back now, I realize just how special this trip was. Gifu, with its quiet charm and hidden gems, became a healing escape exactly when I needed it most. Traveling might not fix everything, but it certainly helps you appreciate life's beautiful moments amidst the chaos. →Photo Gallery from our Gifu Trip←