Chasing Japan’s Earliest-Blooming Sakura in Atami

On Monday, I decided to take a day off and escape to Atami. The reason? Simple. My Instagram feed had recently turned into a never-ending stream of videos about Japan’s earliest blooming sakura. And since one of my New Year’s resolutions was to pick up my camera more often, this felt like fate doing its thing.

The reason for not doing this during the weekend was simple - the weekends here are quite crowded. Atami is popular even without cherry blossoms. And honestly, it’s not hard to see why. The city offers a rare combination: a sandy beach with beautiful ocean views, classic seaside hotels, and some of the most famous onsen in Japan. Add a bit of history and that nostalgic resort-town atmosphere, and it’s the kind of place that feels a little old-school, a little romantic, and very easy to fall for.

I did a bit of work in the morning and then set off for the day. The night before, I’d received recommendations for three local sweets I absolutely had to try, and I’d saved a café on Google Maps promising an amazing parfait with a sea view. A beach, a castle, and a local power-spot shrine were also on the list. With a plan like that, I was certain it was going to be a sweet day - literally.

I headed out a bit later than planned, at around 10 a.m. As I passed through Atami Station, some people were relaxing at the station’s ashiyu, the foot bath, soaking their feet in warm onsen water before continuing their day. Honestly, not a bad way to start a trip.

My first stop was Atami’s famous shopping street. This covered arcade is perfect even on rainy days and is lined with local restaurants, souvenir shops, and regional specialties. And it was here that I found the first thing I’d been told to try: the Butter An Sandwich. This is a soft cookie-like sandwich filled with sweet red bean paste and a thick slice of salted butter.

To be honest, I wasn’t immediately convinced. Eating butter as a dessert isn’t exactly my thing. But since it came highly recommended, I decided to give it a chance. There was already a short line, so I joined it. While waiting, an elderly lady took my order and handed me a small paper slip. When I reached the register, I noticed something else I’d been warned about: cash only. Quite a few places in Atami still don’t accept cards, so this is definitely something to keep in mind.

Dessert in hand, I stepped out of the shopping street and immediately spotted my first sakura trees of the day. Actually, two of them. Fully blooming, right across the street, with a bench perfectly placed underneath. Decision made. This was going to be my breakfast spot.

Even though it was still a cold January day, the sun was shining, and sitting there felt surprisingly warm. I took my first bite of the Butter An Sandwich… and I had to admit, it was really good. Sweet, rich, and indulgent in the best way. With cherry blossoms above me and the city life flowing around me, I couldn’t imagine a better start.

Just across the street, I noticed another store with a long line, this time in front of the famous Atami pudding shop. I made a mental note to come back later. For now, it was time to head toward the main sakura area. As I wandered through Atami, I started noticing something: I was going downhill. A lot. Sometimes very steeply. I briefly wondered if this might come back to haunt me later. (Spoiler alert: it did.)

Not long after, I reached the Itokawa Promenade, a charming street with a small river flowing right through the middle, stretching from the city all the way to the sea. Judging by the growing crowd and the cameras pointed in every direction..the cherry blossoms were still very much in bloom. The first thing that came to mind as I stepped onto Atami’s sakura-lined promenade was that it feels like a smaller, quieter version of Nakameguro in Tokyo. Just like there, a river runs through the town, framed by cherry trees on both sides.

There were quite a few people around, both locals and visitors. A handful of influencers had set up their tripods, and plenty of photographers wandered around with cameras in hand. I joined them, strolling along the street, stopping often to photograph the trees, the river, and the surrounding streets. Small birds fluttered between the branches, pecking at the blossoms and sending delicate pink petals drifting down into the air.

Despite the number of people, it was surprisingly peaceful. You could hear birds singing over the gentle hum of voices. Honestly, it was really lovely, one of those moments where you forget about time and just enjoy being there.

Before I realized it, the promenade opened up to the sea. I had reached the harbor area, where boats rocked softly on the water. The seagulls were sitting around and there was almost nobody here. To the left was a sandy beach, and to the right, a path leading to a cable car that would take me up toward Atami Castle. I decided to go right first

After a short walk, I reached the cable car station, bought a ticket, and enjoyed the brief three-minute ride up the hill. At the top, the view opened wide. The sea was stretching endlessly ahead, calm and pale under the blue winter sky.

I walked toward the castle but decided not to go inside this time. Instead, I took a quick photo from the outside and continued on my next little mission: finding a parfait with a sea view. It took a bit of searching (truly a hidden gem..) but I finally found the café and was incredibly lucky to be offered a counter seat overlooking the ocean. Perfect.

I ordered a strawberry parfait and an iced tea. While waiting, I took out my journal and scribbled down a few thoughts, soaking in a view that felt almost unreal. When the parfait arrived, it didn’t disappoint. Sweet, fresh, and exactly what I had hoped for. Afterward, I needed to head back down to town and decided to take the bus instead of the cable car. As I waited, the sun slipped behind the clouds and a cold wind reminded me that, yes, it was still January after all. The bus arrived a little late, but less than ten minutes later, I was back near the sakura street.

This time, I headed toward the beach. The wide sandy shore, popular in summer, was quiet now. Nearby stood another blooming cherry and offered an interesting combination of sakura, sandy beach, and sea all in one frame, with Atami Castle visible in the background. What a picture.

Close by was another recommendation on my list: fruit sandwiches. I know convenience store fruit sandwiches are famous, but this one was a local specialty. I chose the strawberry one (unsurprisingly..). There were other flavors too - mango, chocolate banana, orange, anyone would find a one they would like.

As tempting as it was, I didn’t eat the sandwich right away. Even something that beautiful and photogenic can be too much after a sweet parfait. I felt like I needed something non-sweet, a glass of water, and honestly, a place to charge my phone. So I ducked into a nearby family restaurant, a well-known chain called Jonathan’s. I plugged in my phone and took a short break. It was one of those very unglamorous but very necessary travel moments: refueling, recharging, and giving my feet (and sugar levels) a chance to recover before continuing on. Next, it was time to head to the other side of the sakura street, toward a shrine. I walked back uphill along the cherry trees until they gradually disappeared, replaced by narrow, winding streets that climbed steadily upward. Before I knew it, I arrived at Kinomiya Shrine.

Kinomiya Shrine is one of Atami’s most important spiritual sites, believed to bring longevity, good health, and protection. I entered the grounds, offered my prayers at the main hall, and then followed a small bamboo-lined path toward the back of the shrine.

There, I found its most famous feature: an enormous camphor tree, said to be over 2,000 years old and known as a powerful energy spot. Legend says that walking around the tree grants longer life. Standing near it, the air felt noticeably different.. cooler, fresher, almost like being deep in a forest. The atmosphere was quiet, heavy with calm, and unmistakably sacred.

I made my way up the steps and bought matcha with a small wagashi, bringing it back to one of the paid seating areas where you can sit silently and observe the tree. As I sipped the warm tea, I was reminded, once again, why I love Japan so much. These quiet, thoughtful spaces have a way of grounding you.

As dusk approached, I headed back toward town. I had one last recommendation on my list: pudding. Atami Pudding is a beloved local dessert known for its rich yet gentle sweetness, made with high-quality milk and served in charming retro glass jars. The caramel sauce is in the cutest little plastic bottles shaped like hippos, their brand character. Simple, nostalgic, and perfectly balanced, it has become one of Atami’s most popular souvenirs.

I found a shop just a couple of streets away from the sakura promenade and bought two - the original one and strawberry-sakura flavored one. However, after all the sweets I’d already enjoyed, I decided not to try them right away but decided these would make a perfect souvenir to take home.

Before leaving, I stopped by the sakura street one last time. By now, it was dark, and the cherry trees were softly illuminated. Traditional Japanese music played from speakers along the path, and with far fewer people around than during the day, the whole scene felt almost intimate. I lingered there for a moment, taking it all in, before finally heading back to Atami Station.

As the train carried me back home, camera full and bag a little heavier with sweets, I realized how much this simple day had given me. Atami wasn’t just about early-blooming sakura or seaside views, it was about slowing down, following small curiosities, and letting a place unfold at its own pace. In the middle of winter, surrounded by blossoms that felt almost out of season, it was a reminder that sometimes the best trips don’t need long planning or far distances. Just a free day, a bit of curiosity, and the willingness to wander. 🌸

Atami in Bloom

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